Egypt
From Tunisia I flew into Cairo, Egypt. If it not for the pyramids, I really couldn't recommend anyone go to Cairo. The chaos, filthiness, and sheer size puts any major Chinese city to shame. While I did encounter some lovely people, the general attitude of the city is very unfriendly. But I realize that for understandable reasons the people of Egypt are wary of Westerners. I had a feeling the entire time that I was walking on incredibly thin ice. Luckily, with my big bushy beard, I at least didn't stand out too much.
One of the lovely people that I spoke of was Gamal, my cab driver to the pyramids. His English was great and he loved to talk. I heard about his family, his ambitions, and how his religion translates into his life philosophy. I got a nice peek into his life and learned a bit about Egyptian culture. An invaluable experience. He also helped me to avoid the ever-present touts, and that helps a great deal in this country.
The Pyramids and Sphinx of Giza are just as awe-inspiring as you would imagine. It boggles the mind that people of 4500 years ago could construct something so massive and sophisticated. The Egyptian Museum also gives you a great peak into the history of the region. I spent several hours wandering the rooms and marveling at the ancient relics.
One of the lovely people that I spoke of was Gamal, my cab driver to the pyramids. His English was great and he loved to talk. I heard about his family, his ambitions, and how his religion translates into his life philosophy. I got a nice peek into his life and learned a bit about Egyptian culture. An invaluable experience. He also helped me to avoid the ever-present touts, and that helps a great deal in this country.
The Pyramids and Sphinx of Giza are just as awe-inspiring as you would imagine. It boggles the mind that people of 4500 years ago could construct something so massive and sophisticated. The Egyptian Museum also gives you a great peak into the history of the region. I spent several hours wandering the rooms and marveling at the ancient relics.
I took a day trip to Alexandria. I went with another traveler I met at the hotel in Cairo. I usually prefer to do most trips on my own, but we were both heading there anyway. He was Slovakian and not too hard on the eyes. He did, however, turn out to be a complete tool. He hated the Egyptians. At one point he said to me, "They are not normal. I don't see them as human. I see them as animal." Oh really? Well, I see you as douche bag... with your short shorts. Alexandria is a big city that has plowed over it's rich history. There is not much to it. There is, per tradition of the city, a state of the art library that's fairly impressive.
I decided to travel overland from Cairo into Israel. This would allow me to see some other places that I realized I had to see. Egypt is home to some amazing places from biblical mythology that I really wanted to check out. I recalled stories of my youth describing the exodus of the Jews across Egypt. Now, even today, travel in Egypt can be pretty tough, but it's an important part of the experience. I find the further you are out of your comfort zone, the more memorable the trip (maybe I should try a kayak in the Okavango swamp). The most important thing I wanted to see was Mt. Sinai. If you are unfamiliar, it is the mountain where, as the story goes, Moses received the 10 commandments from God. It was my mission to make it to the top.
Entering this part of the Sinai Peninsula, I was struck by the huge, stark, and harsh desert mountain landscape. I recalled Zion National park back in the Utah, but without the vegetation. Looking at these extreme mountains and valleys, it seemed to make sense that the desert tribes of the Bronze Age would think up such a dramatic, angry god. Peering up at these towering jagged mountains, you can almost feel the judging eyes of Yahweh gazing down at you. I threw myself headfirst into the fantasy.
Entering this part of the Sinai Peninsula, I was struck by the huge, stark, and harsh desert mountain landscape. I recalled Zion National park back in the Utah, but without the vegetation. Looking at these extreme mountains and valleys, it seemed to make sense that the desert tribes of the Bronze Age would think up such a dramatic, angry god. Peering up at these towering jagged mountains, you can almost feel the judging eyes of Yahweh gazing down at you. I threw myself headfirst into the fantasy.
After the hectic pace of Cairo, it was nice to come to the serenity of Bedouin Camp. I ate some great local food, then sat and smoked and watched an incredible moonrise over Mt. Sinai.
There is a small Christian monastery at the foot of the mountain called St. Catherine's. A bush inside is said to be the burning bush where Moses spoke to God. It takes some serious chutzpah to claim to tourists that this lush and verdant bush is the same from 3000 years ago. I suppose it did the trick in getting people there to see it. I was there! The peak of Mt. Sinai is about 2500 feet above the Monastery and the steep hike is definitely grueling in the desert heat. The view at the top makes it all worth it. You can see for many miles in all directions. But while I was awestruck by the spectacular view, I couldn't help but feel slightly jipped that I didn't receive any divine mandates. Maybe next time.
There is a strange gear shift that takes places when entering a country with money when you have adjusted to a country without. I have experienced this a few times. Going from Nicaragua into Costa Rica, or Cambodia into Thailand, you feel the difference the moment you cross the border. Everything becomes easier, cleaner, safer. But you pay for it. None of these shifts were as strong as going from Egypt into Israel, especially where I did it. Going from Sinai into Eilat, Israel feels like going from, well, Sinai 650 AD into present day Miami Beach. I went from being surrounded by sand and Bedouin herding on the mountainside, to techno music blaring from beach resorts (and entirely way too much Abba). I went with the flow, and got drunk on the beach.
Jordan
The following day, I took a trip into Jordan to see Petra. The dwellings of Petra were carved by the Nabateans into the sandstone of a deep canyon in the 6th century BCE. I was again mesmerized by the elaborateness, the sophistication, the grandeur of this ancient city. It actually blew me away much more so than did the Pyramids of Giza. I'll let the photos do the talking.
Israel & The Palestinian Territories
Anyone familiar with the land comprising Israel, the West Bank, and Gaza know that it is an extremely complicated place. It's political and religious history is equally complicated, and is one that has always fascinated me. Having studied the region, I wanted to make my way there to experience the political climate myself. It is difficult for me not to have strong opinions about this place. After spending this short time here, some of those opinions have been reevaluated, some reinforced. I have decided that I won't really go into these thoughts too much here. It's not really the venue. I would like to just focus on my personal travel experience. But needless to say, I learned a great deal.
The day before I made my way north from Eilat was the day that the Israeli commandos boarded the Turkish flotilla headed to the Gaza Strip. As you could imagine, Israel went on high alert. Going into Jerusalem, the tension was palpable. Soldiers were everywhere. I saw mild protests, but got the feeling that no one would dare escalate things; not with the security presence the way that it was. But as I imagine it always does, life in Jerusalem rolled on.
Jerusalem is, for lack of a better term, a clusterfuck of the worlds big monotheistic religions. The old city of Jerusalem is encircled by walls and split up into separate religious districts. This along with the throngs of tourists all around make you feel like you're at Religo-Disney. Okay, so if we get an early start we can get in the gate and rush through Islamo-Land to beat the crowds to Temple Mountain, then after lunch we can scoot over to Christo-Land to ride the Via Dolorosa Coaster (I heard a guy died on it!), then at sundown we can go catch the Jew Jamboree at the Western Wall. Sound like a plan?
Jerusalem is, for lack of a better term, a clusterfuck of the worlds big monotheistic religions. The old city of Jerusalem is encircled by walls and split up into separate religious districts. This along with the throngs of tourists all around make you feel like you're at Religo-Disney. Okay, so if we get an early start we can get in the gate and rush through Islamo-Land to beat the crowds to Temple Mountain, then after lunch we can scoot over to Christo-Land to ride the Via Dolorosa Coaster (I heard a guy died on it!), then at sundown we can go catch the Jew Jamboree at the Western Wall. Sound like a plan?
Joking aside, Jerusalem (old and new) is one of the most unique and amazing places I've ever been. It is not just a cultural hub with a stunning history, but it contains some of the holiest sites for the majority of religious people in the world. There is something to be said about the power of such a global focal point. There were many moments when I was walking through the narrow streets of the labyrinthine city and had to stop and soak in just how special this place really was. Aside from the historical perspective, Jerusalem is also an incredibly fun city. The nightlife rivals that of Spain and there is great live music all over.
In the old city lie some of the holiest Jewish, Islamic, and Christian sites. The Temple Mount is the holiest site for Jews and marks the place where God created the Earth and Adam and Eve. Atop rests the Dome of the Rock containing the Foundation stone, which is of great importance to the Muslim faith. In the Christian quarter is the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, which lies at the spot where Jesus was said to have been crucified.
I had the good fortune to be in town for Shabbat. The Western (Wailing) Wall comes to life after sunset on Friday. It is a mix of intense prayer from Orthodox Jews, songs from the rest, and a general feeling of celebration and exaltation. Watching hundreds of people gather to observe their holy day in their holiest of places, it is hard not to be moved. Add to this the camaraderie of many dozens of Israeli soldiers relieved for the night to gather in circles and joyfully sing their national songs while vigorously waving their flag. This would not normally be something that evoked emotion in me, but for obvious reasons this display of patriotism means a little something different here. You get a sense of how strong the feeling of unity is here. I suppose having such a tough history brings a people together like I can hardly understand.
In the old city lie some of the holiest Jewish, Islamic, and Christian sites. The Temple Mount is the holiest site for Jews and marks the place where God created the Earth and Adam and Eve. Atop rests the Dome of the Rock containing the Foundation stone, which is of great importance to the Muslim faith. In the Christian quarter is the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, which lies at the spot where Jesus was said to have been crucified.
I had the good fortune to be in town for Shabbat. The Western (Wailing) Wall comes to life after sunset on Friday. It is a mix of intense prayer from Orthodox Jews, songs from the rest, and a general feeling of celebration and exaltation. Watching hundreds of people gather to observe their holy day in their holiest of places, it is hard not to be moved. Add to this the camaraderie of many dozens of Israeli soldiers relieved for the night to gather in circles and joyfully sing their national songs while vigorously waving their flag. This would not normally be something that evoked emotion in me, but for obvious reasons this display of patriotism means a little something different here. You get a sense of how strong the feeling of unity is here. I suppose having such a tough history brings a people together like I can hardly understand.
Church of the Holy Sepulchre
Dome of the Rock
Western Wall
I took some daytrips from Jerusalem around other parts of Israel and the West Bank. I went into Bethlehem to visit the Church of the Nativity. While Bethlehem is a significant historical sight for the Jews, I was there to see the sights of the stories I am personally most familiar with. Having a Christian upbringing, I was curious to see what is said to be the birth place of Jesus. The church is built on top of the old manger of 2000 years ago and is billed as the oldest church in Christianity.
Bethlehem is in the West Bank. Making it over there from Jerusalem is quick and easy. Coming back is a different story. The wall separating the two regions if 25 feet (8 m) high with guard towers every few hundred meters. The security checkpoint is fairly smooth, but I couldn't imagine having to do it everyday to go to work. That is the reality for many Palestinians living in the West Bank, that is for those who even have a license to enter Jerusalem.
I passed through many other checkpoints while I made my way around other areas in the West Bank. The bushy beard that helped me in Egypt quickly became a liability for me in Israel. During one checkpoint crossing I was the only one on the bus who was asked to show their passport
I passed through many other checkpoints while I made my way around other areas in the West Bank. The bushy beard that helped me in Egypt quickly became a liability for me in Israel. During one checkpoint crossing I was the only one on the bus who was asked to show their passport
I travelled down into the Jordan Rift Valley to the shores of the Dead Sea. At 1387 feet (423 m) below sea level it is the lowest place on dry Earth. And hot as hell. Nearby is the location where the Dead Sea Scrolls were found. I also went to see Masada, a mountaintop fortress built by the Jews in the 1st Century BCE to fight against the Romans. An impressive place. We stopped for a while in Jericho (where the walls came tumbling down). Jericho claims itself the oldest constantly inhabited city in the world, but I've heard that before. Afterward, I went for some mud bathing and floating in the Dead Sea.
Masada
Dead Sea
During the next couple of days I took trips up north. I was curious to see the sights of the stories of the New Testament of the Bible and to see the geography of northern Israel. The fertile landscape contains places familiar to anybody with knowledge of Christian scripture: Nazareth, Sea of Galilee, The River Jordan. I found these places to be the most beautiful in all of Israel.
Tel Aviv
Nazareth
Sea of Galilee
Jonny the Baptist at the River Jordan
If you'll indulge me one, perhaps strong, subjective opinion about the countries that I have just visited. I have to say that after experiencing these nations I feel, now more than ever, how important it is for people to begin to take their religions less seriously. This is true everywhere, but especially here. The unavoidable struggle for land reaches new proportions when yearning for religious domination and exclusive dogma enters the mix.
But as I complete my very short time in this region, I have a rejuvenated sense of reverence. It is not so much for the faiths themselves, but for the very very rich cultures surrounding these faiths. I was nearly moved to tears to witness Muslims, Jews, and Christians celebrating life in ways that they have done for many centuries. And there is nothing more human than holding sacred the traditions of your ancestors, and feeling that there is a place in this world that you can call home.
But as I complete my very short time in this region, I have a rejuvenated sense of reverence. It is not so much for the faiths themselves, but for the very very rich cultures surrounding these faiths. I was nearly moved to tears to witness Muslims, Jews, and Christians celebrating life in ways that they have done for many centuries. And there is nothing more human than holding sacred the traditions of your ancestors, and feeling that there is a place in this world that you can call home.
These have been the random thoughts rolling around in my head as I journeyed this fractured landscape, for whatever that's worth. Thanks for coming with me.
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